TEMPLES AND TOURISTS: EXPLORING IN DAXI

Over the last couple of days I have ventured out into Daxi and wandered around the streets like the true tourist that I am. My destinations have often been identified in advance by my cousin, with directions included. This means I can walk with a sense of purpose as I intently make my way past the staring locals. It’s also rather peaceful around here on the weekdays, so I haven’t had to tackle with too many scooters or cars to get to places I want to visit on foot.

However, despite my best intentions I cannot expect to always reach a proposed destination. Two days ago I was sent on my way to a find a local Buddhist monastery (Zhai Ming Monastery). Of course, the temple that I encountered was a small Taoist shrine located on a quiet street corner – the Buddhist monastery was much further down the road. But hey, how did I know? I was jetlagged, and despite the Taoist temple lacking the elaborate decoration and grounds that were described to me, I knew no different. It was actually a really nice spot – the smell of incense and the colourful lanterns with a decorated shrine was like an aperitif preceding the much more luxurious and considered structures and spaces of the Buddhist monastery that was waiting to be discovered the next day.

After my failed attempt to find it, yesterday Nick and I walked further down the road beyond the small Taoist shrine to locate the Buddhist monastery. I would return later in the day to walk around the gardens, but at this point we continued on our walk under the forest canopy along the Zhai Ming Trail. This is an historic stone footpath that meanders down the hillside and looks out over the Dahan River. The foot path is dotted with scenic resting points (complete with shelter and seating) where you can stop to look out across the river basin towards the mountains. It is truly beautiful!

Our return route back up the hillside took us past another (much newer) Taoist temple. Nick showed me the custom to light three incense sticks and to think of your ancestors… which we did. We were also greeted by a local man who informed us that he was learning English (as he waved his electronic translation device in the air). While my cousin engaged in some (Chinese) conversation covering the topic of religion I took in the view of the surrounding trees and vistas out across the hills.

By the time we reached the streets of Daxi again I had gained a sense of whereabouts in relation to the apartment building. My wanderings and trips by bike and car are starting to make sense geographically, and this is improving with every outing I take. One of the most helpful outings for gaining my bearings was a trip to Daxi Old Town with Nick to buy myself a helmet for riding on the scooter or bike. Not only did I discover just how unusually shaped my head is relative to everyone else here, but I also found out that Daxi is in fact much bigger than I had realised. Daxi is a district of Taoyuan city, with a population of around 91,000. It was an important trading post in the nineteenth century, but is now a popular tourist town. The weekends are very busy with Taiwanese and Chinese tourists in Daxi. This is understandable given the scenery from the town, but after experiencing the views on a ride into the mountains today, it is even more evident why the town is so popular with tourists.

Before my venture into the mountains I got to try out my yet untested scootering skills after another delicious breakfast from the breakfast shop across the street. I still can’t believe how cheap it is to eat out here; this meal of hot sweetened soy milk, an egg wrap, a log shaped serving of deep fried batter (much akin to that found on fish and chips at home) and dumplings all cost under £1 per person. I don’t know the names of any of these foods yet, but I will need to learn them soon – I will want to order them… a lot.